Not knowing what to really expect on the roads in Mexico we decided to get a fairly early start. As you likely know, for us that means 9 or 10am? We seem to always live on Mexican time in retirement!
So we left the comforts of our nice North American Hotel and grabbed some coffee and gas.
About 45 minutes later we were crossing the border at Tecate which is just east of the busy San Diego/Tijuana border crossing. We drove right through as expected, there was no one there but a camera!
Chula Vista California thru the Tecate Border Crossing
Down through Ensenada to El Rosario for the first night.
We have driven a few times in Mexico before. Once we rented a car in Phoenix and went down to Rocky Point at the top of the Sea of Cortez and a couple of other times when renting cars down here. Still as confident as we were in Mexico we didn’t know what to expect coming down the Baja.
You here all the stories of bandido’s, road blocks, bad guys posing as police and rip offs at gas stations. We have never experienced any of this but we were prepared just in case. We hid our spare Pesos in different places all over the car. I had a “dummy” wallet with a bunch of useless things in it, my drivers license and some small Pesos. I even bought an alarm for our motel rooms as we sleep (never even used it). All just in case!
I can say now, thankfully we saw nothing that bothered or scared us. The roads were all good, as good as any secondary highway in Alberta and the Police and Army were generally friendly enough. More friendly than most American Border Guards! I would say I feel safer down here than in large American cities, not to say tho that you shouldn’t be smart and on guard. We do watch ourselves.
We did go thru several check stops and/or security points each day.
The Security one sees down here makes one feel more secure also!
Most of the security check points were manned by the Army but a couple were Federale Police and one for Agriculture just like in California except here you have to pay a few Pesos.
The only places we had to be careful of the roads were coming in to towns and leaving them (Topes, which are big speed bumps). Sometimes there were signs warning of the Topes, sometimes they were a surprise! Also the highways were generally in very good shape. Most have no shoulders, when they do it’s a bonus!
Inside the towns and cities one needs to be careful of a lot of Stop Signs, Topes and pot holes, there are many and usually without warning! Unlike North America pedestrians have no right of way so be careful when walking!
Careful, these chickens might provide tomorrow’s breakfast eggs?
Watch out for Cowboys - he just crossed the road in front of us!
Mostly it’s just like driving thru towns at home!
The speed limits on the highways are as good a guess as you have. Usually the highest speed limit we saw was 80Kph. This was crazy and we suspect perhaps slowing you down from whatever you were doing, we aren’t too sure. Many times you’d be going down a deserted highway in the middle of no where at say 100 to 120 Kph and a sign would pop up for 40, 60 or 80Kph? There was no reason? No curve, straight and flat? Why? We have no idea? Could it be a money generation for the Federale Highway Patrol (in case they were there when you were) or? It was very weird.
As we got to La Paz and Todos Santos we did see 100 and even 110Kph speed signs once!
These are the “Good Guys = Federale!”
As the days and miles went on though we became more and more secure is doing what we do back home and that’s make a mile! Once we saw handheld radar, that was it even though we saw Federales on the highways daily they were usually near the towns and cities.
The majority of the highways are two lanes, one each direction so one does have to pay attention and not doze off. As noted shoulders are a rarity so keeping it inside the narrow path is a plus too. The trucks are quite friendly and will usually turn on their left hand turn signal when it’s safe to pass them, one has to be careful tho that they are not actually going to turn left!
Most of the locals in cars cruise at 100 Kph and above. Be careful of tractors and old trucks with loads. Another thing to watch for is wild horses and un-fenced cattle etc.
Watch for animals
Just like back home there are usually plenty of gas stations and corner stores along the way. It used to be the only gas station was PeMex which is government owned (like Petro Canada used to be) but now we see Chevron, Repsol, VP and others too. Gas seems to be around $1.40 Canadian per litre (premium), a bit more expensive than it is around Calgary, Canada. North American chocolate bars at a gas station will set you back about $2 to $2.40 Canadian each as well. So eating more local and away from touristy spots will save you more money.
The terrain was very similar to what we see in Southern California and Arizona. It changes a bit with more bush in places and green ground covering (this time of year) but always has one form of cactus or another. Lots of mountains to see, some rocky and some more tropical looking with green foliage all over them. Temperatures on our trip seem to be a bit un-seasonably cool ranging from 11C in the mornings to 17, 19 and inland as high as 27 and 29C. Most homes and hotel rooms are cement without heat so the mornings when you wake up can be a bit chilly.
The first day of travel south from the USA goes very slow. Both because of heavy traffic and because of slow highways speeds. We didn’t make it very far!
Stopped for road construction in a mountain pass.
All the sudden everyone just passes you on both sides as you sit there waiting?
El Roasario - Mama Espinoza’s Motel.
Our first night was a stop in a little town called “El Rosario.” They only had two motels and Barb didn’t think we needed a reservation, boy was she wrong! It was already dark. Both motels were on the main road but gaining entrance with the car was like a needle in a haystack sort of experience.
Daytime View
It was dark when we arrived...
The ceiling was chip board - nothing else!
Dinner was good tho - No English spoken here!
This area is famous for the Baja 1000 Race!
Pictures everywhere regarding the Baja 1000
Gringo’s from California and Florida have arrived!
No shower for us at this stop!
It was no Hilton but it would do. Barb slept in bed with her clothes on. When I awoke in the morning frozen I wished I had too! Let’s just say we didn’t use the shower! We hit the road after getting gas. No coffee, no purified water anywhere. Thankfully we remembered to carry bottled water in our car for this very purpose because one does not want Montezuma's Revenge at anytime in their life, never mind when travelling in a car!
Day Two was pretty un eventful as well. Lots to see and let’s just say we gained more courage with the speedometer. The highways were very quiet, very little traffic and we were able to make much better time/distance.
Day Two - Guerrero Negro - Malarrimo Motel and RV Campground.
We rolled in to this little town after a good day’s drive. The motel was much better and they had a space next to it for RV’s to camp. Attached was also a nice restaurant and the food was great. In fact I even had pancakes the morning we left!
Malarrimo Motel
Jim’s Breakfast
Slowly we are getting there!
Dinner in the restaurant
The motel rooms
The RV Park out back complete with plug ins!
Day Three we continued our journey which took us to the east side of the Baja as well, right along the Sea of Cortez. It was beautiful!
The area from Santa Rosalía down through Mulegé had some places where RVs were camped right on the beaches! My understanding is that Mexico beaches are all open to the public so this might be un-organized camping with no hook-ups. I would love to spend a few months that way! Sand, beautiful waters and palm trees while living in a motorhome - perfect! It might even be free?
We weren’t able to get much for photos of this camping area so I borrowed a couple from Google Photos.
That’s my kind of camping!
Click to enlarge
I wonder where and how their tanks get emptied?
Guerrero Negro to Loreto.
Loreto - Hotel Plaza Loreto - February 3 to 6, 2020.
From there we continued down the east coast to the town of Loreto. This town might be one of Mexico’s best kept secrets, so don’t tell anyone! I’m afraid one day tourism will ruin this. It was founded in the 1600’s when the first Mission was built.
The developers tried moving in big time around 2007 but failed after a few hundred homes were built and sold plus a golf course with the turn in the economy. We spent three nights in down town Loreto.
Our Hotel
Courtyard
Looking down on the street
The room was great and the people very friendly.
Clean and comfy!
Lots of little shops and places to eat. One night I even ate Pasta! Just like in Italy! We spent the days here taking it easy and touring around by car and on foot. The weather along the coast has only been around 20C which sounds warm but with the sea breeze it’s actually a bit cool. Every morning I would get up and enjoy a few cups of Mexican java, just the way I like it - relaxed!
A great Rib Eye and Baked Potato - Just like at home!
A pub with awesome Soul Music and a live Duo!
Loreto, situated right on the Sea of Cortez!
Dinner near the Malecón
The Malecón
Streets of town
Huge shrimp!
Lots of good restaurants!
Beaches galore!
More food!
Tea on the Town Square (Plaza).
More tea anyone?
Our colds finally seem to be getting better again, thankfully. We’ve gone through a lot of Kleenex!
While in Loreto we were able to go to TelCel and get SimCards for our unlocked cell phones. Each one of us got unlimited calling (Mexico, USA and Canada) and text along with 5Gb of data for about $25.00 Canadian per month each! Beat that TELUS! Canada is the most expensive country for cell phones that we have ever been to!
So now we are on Mexican phone numbers.
Email us for the numbers if you need it. We also have our usual Email and the phone App called “What’s App.”
If you have “What’s App” too we can talk or text that way for free over the internet (a great FREE App that everyone should have!).
After three nights here in Loreto it was time to get gas and get going again!
The Baja is a bit of a long drive from north to south and Im sure it will feel even longer on the way home! Today we drove back towards the Center of the Baja and then back east to the Sea of Cortez again and into La Paz which is a fairly large city.
From Loreto south through La Paz and to Todos Santos!
We got gas and snacks here and an hour later found ourselves at the first of two main locations for our Winter trip - Todos Santos which is back over on the Pacific coast side - less than an hour north of Cabo San Lucas. We made it!
Todos Santos - Thursday, February 6, 2020.
Once into town (we drove up here and checked it out in a rental car last winter) Barb had us following the directions given to us by our Air B&B Landlord, Doug. It was all great until we ran into a Municipal Policeman directing us off our path. Apparently they were doing road work (rare, I know). So on we went, at least we tried...
Just one problem, the GPS in the car and Google Maps doesn’t help a whole lot when you are going somewhere that has no address! But, we persevered and with Barbs talent in guiding me, we drove over “hill and dale” and around and over crevices that looked like they were created by earth quakes on and along the sandy roads - which got sandier the closer we got to the ocean. I say perfect!!
Finally there it was, our little Casita that we will call home for the next three weeks! It is called: “Media Luna.”
Once into the yard, Doug who lives next door gave us the grand tour. Doug is an accomplished artist who moved here 9 years ago from northern New Mexico. He continues his work here painting beautiful landscapes.
Every tap has filtered water (very important) and the home is a gem to say the least!
Dougs home to the left.
Our backyard - Moon included!
It’s a Studio design. Completely made from cement which is polished, glazed and finished or painted in beautiful South Western style Mexican colours. Even the counters are cement! Perfect in case of a Hurricanes!
The home over looks the Pacific Ocean for great sunsets in the evening and all day long you can watch the whales breaching and snorting water to fabulous heights. Peaceful to say the least, it’s like an acreage in Bearspaw, just add the desert, cactus and the ocean with clear blue skies! Do we love it - yes we do!
Doug even had the place stocked with some food to get us through the first day or so. The bed is perfect and no sore backs! Awww paradise at last!
Total trip to date:
From Cochrane, Alberta Canada to Todos Santos, Baja California Sur, Mexico.
Well over 4500 Kms in reality - We Made It!
Towards the Pacific from bed.
Ocean sunsets!
Our lower patio
Good Night!
Friday, February 7, 2020
Just one problem...
My cold is coming back. Barb’s is even worse.
We don’t know why but it’s been doing this to Barb for almost two months now. This morning she’s got a fever and she coughed all night long. A quick phone call to our Pharmacist back home for advice and thankfully we have some Prescribed antibiotics he gave us before we left.
We just pray now that Barb gets better, I know I will live.
The issue with Barb is that due to a disease that she has (and the meds she is on for life) it keeps her immune system somewhat weak. We have to win this battle from the time it starts. With this place to rest in and my talents of care & compassion I am quite sure we will!
So for now it’s adios my friends and our family.
We will update you on our shenanigans again soon...
Glad you made it!
ReplyDeleteGet better!
Thank you Tracey!!
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